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// Web Durango / Special Sections / Summer Guide 2003 / Communities
Advertiser Login   |   Tuesday 1/6/2009
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COMMUNITIES
Bayfield | Cortez | Dolores | Durango | Mancos | Pagosa Springs | Southern Ute Reservation | Silverton | Ute Mountain Ute Reservation | Vallecito Lake

 

BAYFIELD

ELEVATION: 6,900’

Bayfield is an active small town 18 miles east of Durango. It is locally well known for its bang-up 4th of July celebration that lasts all day with a fireworks finale. Many of the residents of Bayfield don’t actually work in the town but instead commute to and from Durango each day.

This pretty town is a mix of the old and the new of a small ranching town in the heart of the Pine River Valley. It sits downstream from Vallecito Lake on the banks of the Pine River. The earliest residents of the Pine River Valley were the Ute Indians, and it wasn’t until the late 1800s that the valley was settled by non-Indians. The first cattle were brought to the valley in 1875 and the valley opened up as more ranchers discovered the fertile land.

Bayfield was named for William A. Bay, who laid out the town in 1898 and established it in 1906. Bayfield has continued to serve as a supply town and social center for the surrounding farmers and ranchers. In recent years, Bayfield has grown rapidly from 320 residents in 1970 to approximately 1800 in 2002.

CORTEZ

ELEVATION: 6,200’

As the La Plata Mountains give way to the Great Sage Plain, the Sleeping Ute Mountain dominates the western vista with its silhouette of a sleeping giant, facing the stars. In this setting is the town of Cortez — the western gateway to Mesa Verde National Park.

In 1906, President Theodore Roosevelt proclaimed Mesa Verde a national park, formalizing a tourist trade that was already booming. Visitors to the park can see the best preserved Ancestral Puebloan ruins in the Southwest and can take advantage of museums and interpretive exhibits. In 2000, President Bill Clinton issued a proclamation creating Canyons of the Ancients National Monument west of Cortez, to protect and promote additional archaeological sites, and that monument is open to archaeology enthusiasts as well. Hovenweep National Monument to the west offers another glimpse into prehistory, as do smaller sites dispersed throughout the area.

Cortez dates from 1886, but the area’s occupied history goes back to prehistoric times, as evidenced by the cliff dwellings in the national park and the multitude of other archaeological sites on the valley floor. Long after the Ancestral Puebloans abandoned their homes around 1300 A.D., members of the Ute Tribe entered the area. Ute Territory changed dramatically at the end of the 19th century, when a mining rush brought European settlers to the area. The miners were soon followed by loggers, farmers and ranchers.

The landscape was long-dominated by dryland farms, but the completion of the Dolores Project and McPhee Reservoir brought irrigation water to the area, and alfalfa hay is now grown side by side with pinto beans.

Cortez is the center of a growing summer tourism trade, with Indian dances, concerts in the park, sports events and a variety of other activities. The community also serves as a trading center for Native American arts and crafts, including the Southwest’s famous pottery, rugs and jewelry. The Cortez Cultural Center offers interpretive programs each evening and the Cortez Welcome Center directs visitors to the many points of interest throughout the region.

 

DOLORES

ELEVATION: approximately 7,000’

The full Spanish name of the Dolores River was Rio de Nuestra Senora de los Dolores, "River of Our Lady of Sorrows," conferred by Fathers Escalante and Dominguez on their historic expedition in 1776. The river winds through the narrow valley in which the town of Dolores nestles, and then empties into McPhee Reservoir, the second-largest lake in Colorado.

McPhee is an ideal site for fishing, camping and boating, and the river itself offers fishing, rafting and kayaking. The valley was once home to the Ancestral Puebloans, and more than 1,380 archaeological sites were identified in the Dolores Project area prior to the construction of the reservoir. The extensive collections from those excavations are archived and interpreted at the Anasazi Heritage Center just north of Dolores, which is also the official headquarters of the new Canyons of the Ancients National Monument.

Dolores is also home of the Galloping Goose #5, a gasoline-powered engine for the narrow gauge railroad. Both the Rio Grande Southern Railroad Depot Museum and Gift Shop offer visitors an opportunity to learn of the area’s rich history of logging, mining and ranching and get some souvenirs from this quaint little town.

Dolores is the southern gateway to the resort community of Telluride, a skiing mecca in the winter but also a magnet for some hikers, bikers and other recreationists.

 

DURANGO

ELEVATION: 6,512’

Durango actually came into existence after the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad built a depot 1-1/2 miles south of the bustling agricultural community of Animas City, after the railroad’s demands were turned down by the perhaps short-sighted Animas City fathers. The gold fever in 1874 resulted in the early mining settlement of Silverton, 50 miles north of what was to become Durango, and the narrow gauge railroad would connect Silverton to the south. The first stake was driven in 1880 and Durango became the transportation hub of the area. Within one year of its founding, Durango had a population of 2,000 and a daily newspaper — the Durango Record.

Although tourism drives the economy of Durango today, its colorful past includes agriculture and mining and smelting operations. Although there are no longer any smelters in or around Durango, the narrow gauge train tracks remain. They were built more than 120 years ago to haul ore from the mineral-rich San Juan Mountains to smelters in town. Those tracks still act as the pathway used by today’s Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad.

Former territorial governor A.C. Hunt had passed through Durango, Mexico (a name meaning "water town") on his way to the Animas Valley location and he saw similarities between the two places and suggested the name. Today, the two Durangos are sister cities, joined by Durango, Spain — which perhaps is the ultimate origin of the name.

The Animas River (as it is known today) flows through town and was named by Spanish explorers in 1776, who called it Rio de las Animas Perdidas, meaning the River of Lost Souls. Today, the river is enjoyed by kayakers, rafters, fishermen and bikers and walkers along the Animas River Trail — a path that runs almost without interruption from 32nd Street to 800 South Camino del Rio (the Durango Mall).

Durango has a diverse cultural population, with the three main cultures reflecting Anglo, Hispanic and Native American. The art community in Durango is strong and thriving. For a town this size, arts and culture are surprising and varied.

 

MANCOS

ELEVATION; approximately 7,000’

The Mancos Valley continues a 140-year tradition as a center of ranching at the edge of the San Juan Mountains and the national forest, as well as serving as a gateway to Mesa Verde National Park. The first white men to see the Mesa Verde ruins had ridden to the top of the mesa from their ranch in the Mancos Valley in search of stray cattle. Their discovery and subsequent explorations ushered in an era of tourism that continues into the 21st century.

Besides the archaeological resources of Mesa Verde, Mancos is convenient to guest ranches, hiking and mountain climbing, fishing and big-game hunting. The La Plata Mountains above Mancos offer remnants of their historic past in the form of silver mines and mills. The town retains its pioneer flavor with a traditional business district and historic homes, stagecoach rides and a Sunday farmers’ market, while also featuring such amenities as modern lodging and top-notch eateries.

Stop in at the Visitors’ Center and Pioneer Museum to learn more about the valley or plan a cowboy country vacation.

 

PAGOSA SPRINGS

ELEVATION: 7,070’

Pagosa Springs is a rapidly growing community in a beautiful setting east of Durango and west of Wolf Creek Ski Area. It is the gateway to Colorado’s largest wilderness area — the Weminuche Wilderness. The Anasazi Indian ruins of the Chimney Rock Archaeological Area are 17 miles west of Pagosa Springs, and the fire lookout tower at Chimney Rock offers a panoramic view of the San Juan Mountains.

The town derives its name from the Ute Indian name "Pagosah" which roughly translated means "healing" or "boiling waters." The Utes discovered the healing powers of the hot springs and Pagosa Springs still welcomes travelers looking to soak in the mineral water. The San Juan River courses through town and offers kayaking, rafting and fishing opportunities.

SOUTHERN UTE RESERVATION

The Southern Ute Tribe has a long and interesting history in this area and even today continues with local history-making. The tribe is the largest employer in La Plata County — accounting for approximately 960 positions. Tribal membership is 1,378 (in 2002) and approximately 80% of the members live in the local area. Among the 558 recognized tribes in the United States, the Southern Utes are among the wealthiest, with a net worth in excess of $1 billion earned through real estate ventures, casino revenues and mineral royalties and other investments.

The hub of tribal life is in the community of Ignacio, which lies 24 miles southeast of Durango. Ignacio sits in beautiful, rolling terrain and the town is a gateway to Navajo Lake from the west. Bordering Colorado and New Mexico, the Southern Ute Indian Reservation is a 15-mile-wide by 73-mile-long strip. Following the Indian wars and the Meeker Massacre (September 29, 1879), the Federal Government set aside 720,000 acres from three counties for the Southern Utes. Everything changed, however, when the reservation opened up for homesteading in the late 1800s. Non-Indians settled most of the best farm, timber and range land, leaving only 411,000 acres for the tribe — a patchwork of land that now constitutes the reservation. This land, interestingly, has turned out to be among some of the most valuable land, owing to its richness in oil and gas.

Within the town of Ignacio, there is a pretty park and monuments to veterans as well as some of the the great Ute leaders, including Chief Ouray.

The attractive Sky Ute Lodge and Casino facility also houses the Southern Ute Cultural Center and Museum, which contains exhibits and artifacts portraying the history of the tribe. There is also the Sky Ute Event Center featuring an indoor/outdoor equestrian training center with rodeos and horse shows scheduled periodically.

In 2001, the tribe added the Sun Ute Community Fitness Center (on the Tribal Headquarters Campus) which offers a rock-climbing wall, two basketball courts, a 1,000-seat-capacity gymnasium, swimming pool, spa, steam room and several meeting rooms. Also in 2001 the Southern Ute Academy was established. It is a Montessori educational facility for infants through third graders.

SILVERTON

ELEVATION: 9,318’

Silverton, even at its high altitude, is surrounded by breathtaking color-streaked peaks of the great San Juan Mountains soaring skyward. The town is located on the upper Animas River and has retained its original western character of wide streets, old hotels, and a turnaround point for the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad which originates in Durango, 47 miles to the south. The entire town of Silverton has been designated a National Historic District by the U.S. Department of the Interior.

The town organizes a number of events from bluegrass to barbershop and brass bands. A jail-turned-museum as well as a restored 19th-century courthouse evoke both early mining and Victorian life in the area.

Silverton is the starting point for explorations into old mining camps at even higher altitudes. The famous Iron Horse Bicycle Classic follows the Durango-Silverton road, Hwy 550 (also known as the "Million Dollar Highway"), to Silverton as hardy bicyclists race the train to Silverton. The event takes place every Memorial Day weekend — and, believe it or not, sometimes even in a cold, spring blizzard.

Wintertime turns Silverton into a different kind of fun-filled place. There is alpine and cross-country skiing, sledding, ice skating, and snowshoeing. Other recreational activities enjoyed according to season are: hiking, backpacking, fishing, hunting, mountain biking, horseback riding and, of course, photography.

Driving into Silverton from either the north, over spectacular Red Mountain Pass, or from the south, over Molas Pass, is a sightseer’s joy. Silverton offers a wealth of old buildings that are, in and of themselves, worth seeing.

 

UTE MOUNTAIN UTE RESERVATION

Occupying the northeast corner of the Four Corners, the Ute Mountain Ute Reservation offers visitors varied recreational opportunities. The Ute Mountain Casino near Towaoc (toy-yock) provides an exciting gaming experience, with bingo, blackjack, poker, generous slots and a popular restaurant. Camping is available on site.

The Ute Mountain Tribal Park, rich in Ancestral Puebloan sites, occupies a portion of the mesa. Native American guides provide tours into the remote canyons, giving visitors a glimpse of the ruins sitting silent as they have for centuries. Meanwhile, on the plain to the west, Ute Farm and Ranch Enterprises is performing state-of-the-art agriculture to bring the desert into production and bring jobs and income to the tribe.

Ute Mountain Pottery allows shoppers to watch Native American pottery being made while they choose which showpieces to take home as souvenirs of their visit.

VALLECITO LAKE

Vallecito Lake (vie-uh-see-toe) is surrounded by the San Juan National Forest and is a beautiful recreational haven for outdoor enthusiasts. The reservoir is known not only for its fishing and boating; there is an abundance of other fun activities including horseback riding, hiking, 4-wheeling, cross-country skiing and snowmobiling.

Vallecito is located 25 miles northeast of Durango and is one of the area’s largest reservoirs. As part of Franklin D. Roosevelt’s New Deal, Vallecito Dam is the largest, most lasting project in southwest Colorado. The planning for the $3.3 million dam begain in 1936 and construction lasted from 1938 to 1941. The workers earned $30 a month and lived in New Deal camps.

A longtime favorite with locals and visitors alike, Vallecito offers plenty of fun, scenery and good places to eat. There are quaint cabins, resorts, motels, RV parks, campgrounds, marinas, dude and guest ranches, fully equipped guide services, and plenty of terrific photo opportunities in this secluded mountain valley.

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