|
COMMUNITIES
Bayfield
| Cortez | Dolores | Durango
| Mancos | Pagosa
Springs | Southern Ute
Reservation | Silverton | Ute Mountain Ute Reservation
| Vallecito Lake
BAYFIELD
ELEVATION: 6,900’
Bayfield is an
active small town 18 miles east of Durango. It is locally well
known for its bang-up 4th of July celebration that lasts all day
with a fireworks finale. Many of the residents of Bayfield don’t
actually work in the town but instead commute to and from Durango
each day.
This pretty town is
a mix of the old and the new of a small ranching town in the heart
of the Pine River Valley. It sits downstream from Vallecito Lake
on the banks of the Pine River. The earliest residents of the Pine
River Valley were the Ute Indians, and it wasn’t until the late
1800s that the valley was settled by non-Indians. The first cattle
were brought to the valley in 1875 and the valley opened up as
more ranchers discovered the fertile land.
Bayfield was named
for William A. Bay, who laid out the town in 1898 and established
it in 1906. Bayfield has continued to serve as a supply town and
social center for the surrounding farmers and ranchers. In recent
years, Bayfield has grown rapidly from 320 residents in 1970 to
approximately 1800 in 2002.
CORTEZ
ELEVATION: 6,200’
As the La Plata
Mountains give way to the Great Sage Plain, the Sleeping Ute
Mountain dominates the western vista with its silhouette of a
sleeping giant, facing the stars. In this setting is the town of
Cortez — the western gateway to Mesa Verde National Park.
In 1906, President
Theodore Roosevelt proclaimed Mesa Verde a national park,
formalizing a tourist trade that was already booming. Visitors to
the park can see the best preserved Ancestral Puebloan ruins in
the Southwest and can take advantage of museums and interpretive
exhibits. In 2000, President Bill Clinton issued a proclamation
creating Canyons of the Ancients National Monument west of Cortez,
to protect and promote additional archaeological sites, and that
monument is open to archaeology enthusiasts as well. Hovenweep
National Monument to the west offers another glimpse into
prehistory, as do smaller sites dispersed throughout the area.
Cortez dates from 1886, but the
area’s occupied history goes back to prehistoric times, as
evidenced by the cliff dwellings in the national park and the
multitude of other archaeological sites on the valley floor. Long
after the Ancestral Puebloans abandoned their homes around 1300
A.D., members of the Ute Tribe entered the area. Ute Territory
changed dramatically at the end of the 19th century, when a mining
rush brought European settlers to the area. The miners were soon
followed by loggers, farmers and ranchers.
The landscape was
long-dominated by dryland farms, but the completion of the Dolores
Project and McPhee Reservoir brought irrigation water to the area,
and alfalfa hay is now grown side by side with pinto beans.
Cortez is the
center of a growing summer tourism trade, with Indian dances,
concerts in the park, sports events and a variety of other
activities. The community also serves as a trading center for
Native American arts and crafts, including the Southwest’s
famous pottery, rugs and jewelry. The Cortez Cultural Center
offers interpretive programs each evening and the Cortez Welcome
Center directs visitors to the many points of interest throughout
the region.
DOLORES
ELEVATION:
approximately 7,000’
The full Spanish
name of the Dolores River was Rio de Nuestra Senora de los
Dolores, "River of Our Lady of Sorrows," conferred by
Fathers Escalante and Dominguez on their historic expedition in
1776. The river winds through the narrow valley in which the town
of Dolores nestles, and then empties into McPhee Reservoir, the
second-largest lake in Colorado.
McPhee is an ideal
site for fishing, camping and boating, and the river itself offers
fishing, rafting and kayaking. The valley was once home to the
Ancestral Puebloans, and more than 1,380 archaeological sites were
identified in the Dolores Project area prior to the construction
of the reservoir. The extensive collections from those excavations
are archived and interpreted at the Anasazi Heritage Center just
north of Dolores, which is also the official headquarters of the
new Canyons of the Ancients National Monument.
Dolores is also home of the
Galloping Goose #5, a gasoline-powered engine for the narrow gauge
railroad. Both the Rio Grande Southern Railroad Depot Museum and
Gift Shop offer visitors an opportunity to learn of the area’s
rich history of logging, mining and ranching and get some
souvenirs from this quaint little town.
Dolores is the
southern gateway to the resort community of Telluride, a skiing
mecca in the winter but also a magnet for some hikers, bikers and
other recreationists.
DURANGO
ELEVATION: 6,512’
Durango actually
came into existence after the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad
built a depot 1-1/2 miles south of the bustling agricultural
community of Animas City, after the railroad’s demands were
turned down by the perhaps short-sighted Animas City fathers. The
gold fever in 1874 resulted in the early mining settlement of
Silverton, 50 miles north of what was to become Durango, and the
narrow gauge railroad would connect Silverton to the south. The
first stake was driven in 1880 and Durango became the
transportation hub of the area. Within one year of its founding,
Durango had a population of 2,000 and a daily newspaper — the Durango
Record.
Although tourism
drives the economy of Durango today, its colorful past includes
agriculture and mining and smelting operations. Although there are
no longer any smelters in or around Durango, the narrow gauge
train tracks remain. They were built more than 120 years ago to
haul ore from the mineral-rich San Juan Mountains to smelters in
town. Those tracks still act as the pathway used by today’s
Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad.
Former territorial
governor A.C. Hunt had passed through Durango, Mexico (a name
meaning "water town") on his way to the Animas Valley
location and he saw similarities between the two places and
suggested the name. Today, the two Durangos are sister cities,
joined by Durango, Spain — which perhaps is the ultimate origin
of the name.
The Animas River (as it is known
today) flows through town and was named by Spanish explorers in
1776, who called it Rio de las Animas Perdidas, meaning the River
of Lost Souls. Today, the river is enjoyed by kayakers, rafters,
fishermen and bikers and walkers along the Animas River Trail —
a path that runs almost without interruption from 32nd Street to
800 South Camino del Rio (the Durango Mall).
Durango has a
diverse cultural population, with the three main cultures
reflecting Anglo, Hispanic and Native American. The art community
in Durango is strong and thriving. For a town this size, arts and
culture are surprising and varied.
MANCOS
ELEVATION;
approximately 7,000’
The Mancos Valley
continues a 140-year tradition as a center of ranching at the edge
of the San Juan Mountains and the national forest, as well as
serving as a gateway to Mesa Verde National Park. The first white
men to see the Mesa Verde ruins had ridden to the top of the mesa
from their ranch in the Mancos Valley in search of stray cattle.
Their discovery and subsequent explorations ushered in an era of
tourism that continues into the 21st century.
Besides the
archaeological resources of Mesa Verde, Mancos is convenient to
guest ranches, hiking and mountain climbing, fishing and big-game
hunting. The La Plata Mountains above Mancos offer remnants of
their historic past in the form of silver mines and mills. The
town retains its pioneer flavor with a traditional business
district and historic homes, stagecoach rides and a Sunday farmers’
market, while also featuring such amenities as modern lodging and
top-notch eateries.
Stop in at the
Visitors’ Center and Pioneer Museum to learn more about the
valley or plan a cowboy country vacation.
PAGOSA
SPRINGS
ELEVATION: 7,070’
Pagosa Springs is a
rapidly growing community in a beautiful setting east of Durango
and west of Wolf Creek Ski Area. It is the gateway to Colorado’s
largest wilderness area — the Weminuche Wilderness. The Anasazi
Indian ruins of the Chimney Rock Archaeological Area are 17 miles
west of Pagosa Springs, and the fire lookout tower at Chimney Rock
offers a panoramic view of the San Juan Mountains.
The town derives its name from the
Ute Indian name "Pagosah" which roughly translated means
"healing" or "boiling waters." The Utes
discovered the healing powers of the hot springs and Pagosa
Springs still welcomes travelers looking to soak in the mineral
water. The San Juan River courses through town and offers
kayaking, rafting and fishing opportunities.
SOUTHERN
UTE RESERVATION
The Southern Ute
Tribe has a long and interesting history in this area and even
today continues with local history-making. The tribe is the
largest employer in La Plata County — accounting for
approximately 960 positions. Tribal membership is 1,378 (in 2002)
and approximately 80% of the members live in the local area. Among
the 558 recognized tribes in the United States, the Southern Utes
are among the wealthiest, with a net worth in excess of $1 billion
earned through real estate ventures, casino revenues and mineral
royalties and other investments.
The hub of tribal
life is in the community of Ignacio, which lies 24 miles southeast
of Durango. Ignacio sits in beautiful, rolling terrain and the
town is a gateway to Navajo Lake from the west. Bordering Colorado
and New Mexico, the Southern Ute Indian Reservation is a
15-mile-wide by 73-mile-long strip. Following the Indian wars and
the Meeker Massacre (September 29, 1879), the Federal Government
set aside 720,000 acres from three counties for the Southern Utes.
Everything changed, however, when the reservation opened up for
homesteading in the late 1800s. Non-Indians settled most of the
best farm, timber and range land, leaving only 411,000 acres for
the tribe — a patchwork of land that now constitutes the
reservation. This land, interestingly, has turned out to be among
some of the most valuable land, owing to its richness in oil and
gas.
Within the town of
Ignacio, there is a pretty park and monuments to veterans as well
as some of the the great Ute leaders, including Chief Ouray.
The attractive Sky
Ute Lodge and Casino facility also houses the Southern Ute
Cultural Center and Museum, which contains exhibits and artifacts
portraying the history of the tribe. There is also the Sky Ute
Event Center featuring an indoor/outdoor equestrian training
center with rodeos and horse shows scheduled periodically.
In 2001, the tribe added the Sun
Ute Community Fitness Center (on the Tribal Headquarters Campus)
which offers a rock-climbing wall, two basketball courts, a
1,000-seat-capacity gymnasium, swimming pool, spa, steam room and
several meeting rooms. Also in 2001 the Southern Ute Academy was
established. It is a Montessori educational facility for infants
through third graders.
SILVERTON
ELEVATION: 9,318’
Silverton, even at
its high altitude, is surrounded by breathtaking color-streaked
peaks of the great San Juan Mountains soaring skyward. The town is
located on the upper Animas River and has retained its original
western character of wide streets, old hotels, and a turnaround
point for the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad which
originates in Durango, 47 miles to the south. The entire town of
Silverton has been designated a National Historic District by the
U.S. Department of the Interior.
The town organizes
a number of events from bluegrass to barbershop and brass bands. A
jail-turned-museum as well as a restored 19th-century courthouse
evoke both early mining and Victorian life in the area.
Silverton is the
starting point for explorations into old mining camps at even
higher altitudes. The famous Iron Horse Bicycle Classic follows
the Durango-Silverton road, Hwy 550 (also known as the
"Million Dollar Highway"), to Silverton as hardy
bicyclists race the train to Silverton. The event takes place
every Memorial Day weekend — and, believe it or not, sometimes
even in a cold, spring blizzard.
Wintertime turns
Silverton into a different kind of fun-filled place. There is
alpine and cross-country skiing, sledding, ice skating, and
snowshoeing. Other recreational activities enjoyed according to
season are: hiking, backpacking, fishing, hunting, mountain
biking, horseback riding and, of course, photography.
Driving into
Silverton from either the north, over spectacular Red Mountain
Pass, or from the south, over Molas Pass, is a sightseer’s joy.
Silverton offers a wealth of old buildings that are, in and of
themselves, worth seeing.
UTE
MOUNTAIN UTE RESERVATION
Occupying the northeast corner of
the Four Corners, the Ute Mountain Ute Reservation offers visitors
varied recreational opportunities. The Ute Mountain Casino near
Towaoc (toy-yock) provides an exciting gaming experience, with
bingo, blackjack, poker, generous slots and a popular restaurant.
Camping is available on site.
The Ute Mountain
Tribal Park, rich in Ancestral Puebloan sites, occupies a portion
of the mesa. Native American guides provide tours into the remote
canyons, giving visitors a glimpse of the ruins sitting silent as
they have for centuries. Meanwhile, on the plain to the west, Ute
Farm and Ranch Enterprises is performing state-of-the-art
agriculture to bring the desert into production and bring jobs and
income to the tribe.
Ute Mountain
Pottery allows shoppers to watch Native American pottery being
made while they choose which showpieces to take home as souvenirs
of their visit.
VALLECITO
LAKE
Vallecito Lake
(vie-uh-see-toe) is surrounded by the San Juan National Forest and
is a beautiful recreational haven for outdoor enthusiasts. The
reservoir is known not only for its fishing and boating; there is
an abundance of other fun activities including horseback riding,
hiking, 4-wheeling, cross-country skiing and snowmobiling.
Vallecito is
located 25 miles northeast of Durango and is one of the area’s
largest reservoirs. As part of Franklin D. Roosevelt’s New Deal,
Vallecito Dam is the largest, most lasting project in southwest
Colorado. The planning for the $3.3 million dam begain in 1936 and
construction lasted from 1938 to 1941. The workers earned $30 a
month and lived in New Deal camps.
A longtime favorite
with locals and visitors alike, Vallecito offers plenty of fun,
scenery and good places to eat. There are quaint cabins, resorts,
motels, RV parks, campgrounds, marinas, dude and guest ranches,
fully equipped guide services, and plenty of terrific photo
opportunities in this secluded mountain valley. |